Rideau Canal...
July 22 - July 28, 2023
The Rideau Canal was planned soon after the end of the War of 1812. Following the end of the American Revolution, many British loyalists moved north into Canada. The US Congress encouraged citizens to move westward to develop communities. The British Navy would take Americans off ships and force them to fight in the Napoleonic Wars in Europe for Great Britain. These continued tensions brought about the War of 1812. Canada and Britain wanted protection from the United States following the end of the war. It took a number of years to get started. Colonel John By, a Royal Navy Engineer, oversaw the project from 1826 to its completion in 1832. This would allow military supplies as well as products to move up and down Canada if war was to break out with the US. The canal is 125 miles in length with 12 miles of man made canal cuts(think 6 foot ditch) and locks. The locks and canals were placed to overcome the disrupted movement of water due to rocks and currents. The 45 locks raised us 275 feet from Ottawa to the Upper Rideau Lake and then dropped us down 166.2 feet to Kingston. In addition to building the canal, Colonel By also had to oversee the development of the area with English settlers and the indigenous people. One of the biggest issues was violence and drunkenness throughout town. So it sounds like he had his hands full. Given that the canal was never used in wartime, it did help with commerce and now is strictly recreational. In 2007, the Rideau Canal was listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Leaving Ottawa, the Other Woman follows the other boats moving south. On the outskirts of Ottawa, we saw a group of boats for dragon boat racing. The amount of grasses was astounding to both of us. We heard this was a problem before traveling here but not expecting this. It interrupted our depth finder at times which was concerning as this canal already has locations with shallow water. We got to enjoy many fun sites. The couple floating on the river by their homes with drinks in their hands, raised a glass as we passed by and said, "This is how we do it in Canada." AY to that!
Of course everyone should have a seaplane in their backyard!
Traveling for 11 hours on the first day, we dealt with 11 locks and 5 bridges to be lifted. The locks were uneventful except for one episode when Danny was putting the boat in neutral to go get the stern line in the lock(I handle the bow line). He thought it was neutral and it was one notch in forward. I had my hand around the rope and almost lost my fingers. I screamed we were moving and he ran and hit reverse, saving my fingers and avoiding us hitting the front lock wall. Other lock experiences-
You can appreciate the depths of these locks from where we start which is always down and being raised upward. Danny holding his stern line in the locks and the lock staff working hard in the heat. We gave them water at each lock that we had put in the freezer to show our appreciation!
When leaving locks, we would often see boats stacked up enjoying the day. Moving bridges allowed us to move down the canal. I mention the water being shallow in some places, this was one of them below. Danny and I thought we were back in the Dismal Swamp again. The saying goes if you ask the lock staff, do you think I can get through that area with my boat, the answer is, just stay in the middle and you SHOULD be alright. The depth on the canal is said to be 6 feet but again we saw less. Our draft or the amount the boat is underwater is 3 feet 8 inches. Danny always says his draft is 4 feet. If your draft is more than 5 feet, PARCS Canada actually make you sign a release that they are not responsible for any damage done to your boat. Rest assure Danny has said many 4 letter words.
Frequent plant growth noted throughout the limestone edges in the locks.
We were exhausted when we arrived into our first town, Merrickville. It was already an established town when the canal was built. Because of this, the biggest blockhouse was built here. The blockhouse would hold 50 men and large amounts of arms and ammunition to protect the area from the Americans.
Merrickville was a nice stop with a cute downtown area. We were able to get a spot at Siren Boatworks which specializes in restoring old boats. We actually saw them working with mahogany wood for staves. There was a 1953 Chris Craft boat which took 3 years to restore.
Dinner was okay at the Goose and Gridiron but the Village Coffee House for breakfast and Stella Luna Gelato were fantastic. There are a number of artists who have galleries in town and I enjoyed walking through those shops. Danny chose to walk through the LCBO store- Liquor Control Board of Ottawa with several purchases. I found the street sign interesting directing you to the alcohol store as it was listed first. The morning we left, we went to the breakfast place and while waiting for our order I overheard a discussion of an older women sitting in the corner with someone younger than me. The older woman said, “I have been waiting here since 7am for you, I assume you were out drinking last night ay?” Many of the people will end their sentences with ay (pronounced A). I almost busted out laughing but didn’t. Roxanne and I went down to where there are rapids outside the canal and walked on the rocks.
This was an interesting building and unique brick pattern. A physician lives in the house and has his office located in his home. I thought his office hours were interesting.
The Other Woman resting before leaving Merrickville at the "blue line." After leaving, we had this small cruise ship coming out of the locks which we had to move out of the way. The front folds down after coming out of the lock.
The next town was Smith Falls. This was not as much travel as the first day. We needed our strength for watching the markers and staying in the center not to run aground and hoping we met few to no boats to make us move outside the center. The heat was another thing to add to the stress of traveling. Given it was Monday, many things were closed so Danny was not able to go to a pub he had hoped to enjoy but we did get to the grocery store and they actually had Cherry Coke Zero. The first time we have seen it in Canada!
Our next stop was to be Seeley's Bay but the harbormaster called me and said they had electrical problems and could not assure us of power. Lucky for us, we were just approaching a lock that had power for both the Other Woman and the Beach House. After we got our boats tied up and power connected, Danny and David went to see if they could help the lock staff with the lock or the swing bridge. They were happy to let them help as it helped them. Danny helped open the lock doors for boats to go north. He then went over to help with the swing bridge where he went round and round singing the loop de loop.
We enjoyed sitting outside and watching nature while we ate dinner and Danny made margaritas in the middle of nowhere. The lock called the Narrows was cut by the British to connect 2 large lakes for the canal. Prior to that time it was the area that the Indians would walk their canoes over to get to the other lake. At this point on the canal instead of going up in the lock, we will now go down 166 feet to Kingston.
Several homes on little islands and a car ferry that goes maybe 100 yards at most. I can't see that the car ferry could hold more than 1 car.
Following the Jones Fall lock, we stayed over at Hotel Kenney for 1 night with 26 miles left of the canal. The hotel was built in 1880's and was recently purchased and they are working on restoring. They have a great location at the base of the lock and falls. Being at 99 miles now, we have 26 miles to go to include several bridges and 7 locks which doesn't count in the mileage but definitely counts in the time it take to get to the next place! Below you can see the cascade of the Jones Fall.
Our last part of the Rideau Canal was from Hotel Kenney to Kingston, Ontario. We woke up to a driving rain but decided to move on even though we had no place to stay. Roxanne and I were working the phones while traveling hoping someone would cancel or leave early. This afternoon we did find a place in Kingston, so all was good! We saw this interesting sign on the river that was someone's Lake House. And believe it or not the picture on the right was a point of land called Jenny Point!
Our last set of locks which was 3 together and Danny exiting our last lock on the Rideau Canal!
Another day on the water...
TOTAL MILES TRAVELLED 3946.70 miles
TOTAL DAYS- 257
Locks- 90
Bridges Openings- 34
Next up- The Thousand Islands on both the United States and Canada!
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